EVEREST BASE CAMP "THE ROAD"- PT. 1

PART I "THE ROAD"--TREKKING IN NEPAL- click on pictures to enlarge

JOPKYOS CARRYING GEAR

SHERPA, SOME LOADS = 250 LBS

There are many roads to Nirvana and the trek to Everest Base Camp has to be one of them. As I walked through the enchanting sherpa villages of Nepal, I couldn't help feel like I was reincarnated just to enjoy this moment. With 400 year old villages dotting the trek, you are instantly transported back to the stone age, dodging the horns of yak-like animals called "Jopkyos"- (a cross between a yak and a cow), or watching the astonishing feats of 5'

SHERPA USING TOKMA TO REST

NAMLO HEAD BAND

tall Sherpas carrying 250 lbs on their backs. I still remember one Sherpa using his Tokma- a "T" shaped stick to rest as he hoisted 12- 2"x 8"'x 8' boards tied to his back. In many cases they used ancient looking baskets for back packs to carry the goods and with a bandana like scarf--called a Namlo to help hold the load to their heads.

 GUEST HOUSE & WES TAKING PICS

Along the way we saw thematic green/white guest houses with rock facades that were chiseled out by a hammer and the wood is still cut by a handsaw--no real electricity exist, just limited solar.



"THE YAK TEAM" 

SAY "YAK CHEESE"

The group had come together from all over the U.S. to test their limits or conquer their fears. We had the 3 amigos from back east- Josh, Cary and Andrew. Cary was one of the stars on the trip with his chest length sometimes braided Red beard. The women always had a big smile on their face pointing to the wavy beard, the and the kids would run out of their huts just to see him.

RED BEARD CARY

 Josh was our techy guy, he had the solar charging kit, and the gps watch and knew exactly where we were heading. Andrew-well he like Jamison's whiskey and kept the bars in business. Deena and Melody both originally from Alaska, were the iron girls. Stacy, a 30 year old lawyer from San Fran kept leading the pack and befriended our hero, 69 year old Nick from Atlanta. Tina- with her matching boots, was also from San Fran, really into yoga, and a master barterer. The shop owners didn't know what hit them after she went through.  Last but not least was the Mother and son combination- Carolyn, from Colorado, and Wes- who worked on movie special effects in Hollywood, and was our designated professional photographer, they never took Diamox and did just fine.
What I liked about the group was how everyone supported each other-we all took turns getting altitude illness, we coughed together, tried composting Sherpa toilets, and basically froze together in our tents, and hardly anybody wined. Can't say enough about the congeniality of the group.
REI, SHERPA GUIDES AND SPIRTUALITY

THUBTEN OUR LEAD GUIDE

OUR HARDWORKING SUPPORT

REI runs a great trek. We had a support group of 20 people for 11 trekkers and our own cook. Our 2 main guides were outstanding. Thubten Yeshi, and Badri Dangi. Thubten our lead Sherpa guide had been guiding for over 20 years with REI. Thubten was a monk for 20 years and 10 of those 20 were in the Tengbouche  Monastery, the largest monastery in the Khumbu the region. His father was part of the historic team, that climbed with Sir Edmund Hilary in 1963, he personally saved 4 members of the team and was latter honored with a medal from National Geographic Society for his heroics by JFK. Tupten speaks 5 languages including Japanese, and if that wasn't enough his artistry captures your imagination on canvas. We we trekked I liked to "saunter" near end of the group, so did Cary. I took this opportunity to ask Thubten all sorts of questions about the meaning of life as a Buddhist. So on one of the final days I turned to Thubten and said, "we know that 'inner peace' is what we all seek in our lives, but what does that mean to you." I will never forget what he said," SATISFACTION". A very difficult challenge for our non-sustainable Western lifestyle.

TENGBOUCHE MONASTARY

ELECTRICAL MAYHEM

BUDDHIST RELIGIOUS STUPA

THE CULTURE. Kathmandu, let see, I think the best way to summarize it is controlled chaos, surrounded by ancient temples that embrace the skyline. The picture of the electrical wires would be a good analogy. As I walked the streets, peering in all the fascinating shops, one eye was always on zooming motorcycles coming out of nowhere beeping there horns, and of course there are no sidewalks to walk on, so playing dodge the cycle is exciting- but to their credit they are excellent drivers-I never saw a wreck. When you do get tired the Rickshaw drivers will pick you up and drop you off where ever you want to go.  Nepal is a unique combination of culture, mostly composed of Buddhists and Hindus, the different religions get along really well, often the Buddhist religious Stupas and the Hindu temples are very close to each other and they share holidays.

PALACE FOR PAST MONARCH'S

RICKSHAW RIDES

A KNOCK OFF STARBUCKS

LUKLA AIRPORT 9.000' ELEVATION

BRIDGE TO PHAKDING

HOW TO START AN ADVENTUROUS TREK. First take the 15 seater roller coaster airplane ride from Kathmandu to Lukla. Grab your seat, pray, then drop out of the air over a mountain ridge onto a 9,000' elevation angled airport strip that is about 200 meters long and roar to a stop. When the planes take off, they are revved to the maximum and shoot out as if on a tightly wound rubber band. We started the trek from Lukla heading through the village only to be greeted by a Starbucks sign--really! Our first day was an easy hike down to 8,600 feet hike and we settled in for the first night of tent camping at Phakding, nestled next to a river connected by a suspension bridge.
FIRST BIG PUSH: NAMCHE BAZAAR-11,300'

PRAYER WHEEL, ALWAYS SPIN CLOCKWISE

PRAYER ROCKS--MUST ALWAYS PASS ON THE LEFT

We start off with our morning Tea and some hot bath water at 6:30 AM, breakfast at 7:15AM and on the trail by 8AM, pretty much our ritual everyday. On this day we were to hike from 8,600' up to up to 11,300' an 2,700' foot gain. This was the first of many challenging days, the last 1,800' was straight up. Along the way you can't help but have a smile on your face as you pass the charming Sherpa villages, most with prayer wheel, and Stupa to greet you. Namche is home to the largest Sherpa village and is the primary staging area for major Himalayan expeditions. And the world's highest bazaar on Saturdays, people come from everywhere to buy goods.
THIS IS THE END OF PART 1, STAY TUNED FOR PART2  WHEN THE ALTITUDE KICKS IN AND THE VIEWS ARE UNPARALLELED

MORE SUSPENSION BRIDGES

AT THE BAZAAR SMOKING TOBACCO