 |
| jay, judith, Loraine, & moi |
We were joined by our eternal Kiwi friends, Jay and Judith. June is winter for them, so they were ready to get out of town. We met in the buzzling town of Papeete where we rented a car and took off to the White Beach on the coast of Paea, @20 miles southwest. There is one beautiful public park sandy beach in the area just north with quiet waters and a nice family place for snorkeling.
 |
| White Palm apts on beach |
This is where the French held the Olympic surfing competition in 2024 the waves were small then too. But I can just imagine what it would be like if the waves were breaking at its historic heights of 45 to 50+ feet ((15-18 meters).
Island Ring tour: We didn't know what to expect on the single lane drive around the island and was surprised by the different topography. The east side as it is called, offers many interior adventures such as the hike and swim through the Hitiaa's lava tubes, and the drive is flooded with dynamic views of ridges and valleys.
 |
| Topatari waterfall |
The windy road pirouettes around curves with drop offs into the sea. Along the way we stopped at the Topatari and Vaiharuru waterfalls for a short hike along the Papenoo river. This valley was the last stronghold to the faithful ancient Polynesian religion until 1846, and was the shelter for the Tahitian rebel forces that opposed the French takeover. You can also take a challenging 4WD tour from Papenoo all the way across to the south portion of the island to Mataiea township, and see Lake Vaihiria, the only natural interior lake of Tahiti.
Moby Dick's snorkeling: Time to take a coral garden boat trip. So we picked Moby Dick's run by French gal named Isabelle. She even provided wet suits which you really don't need, a rash guard works fine. The clarity of the water was truly mesmerizing, refracting the various shade of blue from teal to azure.
 |
| clarity for sure |
The temperature of the water is to die for between 81°F (27°C) to 83F (28°C). Isabelle was great, responded quickly to any inquires, and even snorkeled with us pointing out the various fish life. And back in the boat she broke the fish and coral guides to point out some more species. We even glided over some green sea turtles and stingrays.
 |
| Absorbing the moment |
Once in the water though I became quickly disillusioned...the coral for the most part was DEAD. Although there were many species of fish with stunning colors, the coral was drab, yucky brown color with the gnarly looking algae on top. The best thing is you could still see 100' (30.8m) through the water, but if you were not paying attention, like me, and in shallow water... you can back into some coral and gouge your leg, ouch! bleeding the whole time I kept thinking of course.. who likes blood?.... Sharks!
Afternoons: The days were full of action in the morning, but soon gave way to the heat. When we would all settle in for our naps, a good book or sitting and watching the waves break on the outer reef. Around 5pm things perked up and gaming began. Throw in some beer, gin, and martinis... and play the game "Five Crowns".. and you are in for some fun times.
 |
| Sunset off the deck with Moorea in the background |
Moorea: ( Muh-Ree-uh) The island often referred to as the Magical Island--and magic it is... when we first caught a glimpse from the short ride on the ferry with the car you see the iconic Mount Rotui and Mount Tohivea, breaching the sky. The rugged peaks when Captain Cook landed here in 1769, on the other side, must have filled him with awe.
 |
| Moorea, has it all. |
 |
| Belvedere point |
 |
| Challenging on rained a soaked day.. |
 |
| Mape (Chestnut) tree surface roots |
 |
| You only live once! |
Sorry, the teacher is coming out of me now: The equatorial coral reefs are a living metropolis submerged in liquid light, and they are endangered around the world for several reasons: 1. Climate change-the heating of the water, 2. Chemicals such as pesticides and industrial heavy metals, 3-The loss of predators like the Triton shell- (which eats the coral predator Crown of Thorns), collected by natives and sold to tourist for shell collections.
 |
| Hideous looking Crown of Thorns |
To give you a better picture of how they function you have to know the structure, there are 3 parts: for hard corals you have a Calcium Carbonate skeleton on the outside (cement like), with a coral fleshy polyp inside, (looks like a sea anemone-or a fleshy hand), and inside the polyp's fleshy tissue is the life sustaining algae-Zooxanthaellae which gives the coral it's color, and performs photosynthesis which provides the polyp with glucose
 |
| coral polyp- extended outside the CaC03 skeleton |
 |
| A healthy looking reef |
Coral reefs are often called the rainforests of the sea, and they are both only found in a narrow belt around the equator. They are systems in full balance, but even a slight upward change in water temperature a 1.8°F-3.6°F (1°-2°C) is enough for the coral polyp to eject the algae. Why, the heated photosynthetic processnow toxic materials that poisons the polyp, and it in turn exudes the algae making it look white in color (bleaching), and it starts to die. The other major culprit is an algae called REMU. Now with the coral polyp dying the remu algae floats in uses it as a substrate to grow on. Consequently, there is now no space for any future Coral polyps spores nearby to land on and start the next level of coral development. A chain reaction for sure!
 |
| Bad REMU algae growing dead coral |
 |
| Mt. Tohivea at 3,960' (1,207 m) |
 |
| Jay taking a break |
 |
| Local food truck |
 |
| The Big Kahuna |
Sofitel Kia Ora Beach Resort: If we were to come back to Moorea, this would be our first choice with this best snorkeling reef to the left of bungalows (go to the one which is furtherest out). Amazing staghorn live coral..tons of reef fish, sea turtles etc.
 |
| Sofitel Kir Ora Beach Resort |
We parked at the public beach next to it and then walked along the beach to the bungalows, swimming out you notice the difference right off the bat, coral heads are beaming with fish, once out there the water is not deep on a medium tide, so floating over the arborescent (antler-like) coral which forms dense groups of underwater "thickets" or "forests". So many fish of all sizes from the Bluefin Trevally, Trigger Fish etc. but my personal favorite is the irridescent Blue -Green Damselfish darting in and out of the coral like a symphony underwater. We had purchased a laminated polynesian reef guide on Amazon and marked the spp. seen each day. Over the course of the trip we ID about 50 spp. of fish-etc
 |
| copyright:www.frankosmaps.com |
Quad Ride: Time for some action... I had never rode a quad before, and decided since I wasn't getting any younger I would give it a try. I suggested to Loraine, she could sit on the back and I would drive us... well, that didn't go over so well since she is an experienced quadder... so I got my own. We joined a tour and they gave us a 10 second preview of what to do.. all set. Off we went, or off the others went -while I rode it like a bucking bronco. Due to a previous thumb injury I couldn't quite get the throttle right, so thank goodness no one was on back or they would have been thrown off on the pavement right from the start. We headed out on the main road at about 25-30 mph and then low and behold back to Belvedere pt. Another head bobbing view and back on the road heading down, hmmm this was now getting fun zooming around the corners at nearly record speed- in my head anyway.
 |
| Quad Master |
We soon turned off on this side rainforest service road which led us to the pineapple groves for a quick overview. Seems Captain Cook introduced the pineapple back on one of his trips.. the guide joking said he traded with the natives: 1 pineapple according to legend was worth 1 woman.. Seems like... I am going to stop right there.
 |
| Pineapple grove |
Next we went to the site where they filmed Mutiny on the Bounty with Mel Gibson and then headed to a river crossing and stopped for a break.
 |
| Mutiny on the Bounty Location shoot |
Well it was a planned stop because our guide took us over to the river and started throwing pieces of tuna in the water and kind of splashing around.. All of a sudden these giant river eels showed up. Some were 6' (2m) in length and as he petted them told us they are considered sacred on this island, and in history was only eaten by the chiefs, not anymore though.
 |
| Guide with sacred eels |
After the eels we headed up to the true test of quadmanship. A quick turn off the main road and up, up, up we went to the top of Magic Mountain. Sections of it had cement like paths with 2 feet spread and 3 inch drops in the middle, so you had to stay on them or over the edge you went.
 |
| J and J on top of Magic mtn. |
Windy, wild turns on every corner, and after about 20 min. or so made it to the top around 600' (209m) ---and the top it was, with resplendent views spanning the island in every direction... of course all I could think about was the road back down....turns out it wasn't so bad and we all made it back in one piece after a stop for a another tasty smoothie.
 |
| Fare Makana |
Our time with our Kiwi friends was coming to an end. We had 10 days of total fun with them. We enjoyed our stay on Moorea at the Fare Makana residence with its coral inlay floor, and now Jay can rest on his laurels of being Five Crowns Champ- until we meet again old friends.
Bora Bora: Often referred to as the jewel of the Pacific, is about 1 hour plane ride, and cost about 1/2 the flight from LAX to get there.
 |
| look ma- no rotation |
The airport is actually on a strip of land disconnected from the main island and you have to take a ferry to get to the main city of Vailtape and get picked up by your hotel or take a taxi to get where you are going. The problem is you never know which ferry is yours, because the fancy dancy places like the
 |
| Mt. Otemanu on Bora Bora |
Intercontinental have their own ferry like shuttles. So the secret is, to look at the shirts of the crew on the boat-- depending on which airline you fly in... it's free. Leaving the ferry you are instantly captivated by the iconic Mt. Otemanu a standing clipper edge of an eroded volcano at 2,385' (727m). We stayed at the Royal Bora Bora with a great breakfast served right on the beach,
 |
| Morning breakfast on the beach, not a bad way to start the day |
plus they provided a colorful traditional polynesian entertainment and pose for pics after the show. A nice hotel but the coral was dead in front of hotel, disgusting.
 |
| Dinner was good too |
We had been waiting to dive with something big like a Manta Ray or Shark. So we joined a snorkel group to the coral gardens on the first day there. The first stop was great, standing in chest deep water the Black Tip reef sharks swim right up to you. Kindy of spooky at first, especially when you can look right into their eyes wondering what the heck they eat out here.
 |
| Can't see the Blackfin just to the right of Loraine |
 |
| Blacktip reef shark |
But you get used to it and along with the stingrays they put swim my you like you are part of the obstacle path. The stingrays are fascinating to watch eat. Their mouth is on the bottom so they feed with similar shark like electroreceptors called: "The Ampullae of Lorenzini" The tiny pores pick up the electrical impulse given off by the prey in the sand. Once they locate the prey they incorporate the pectoral fins in a downward flap to create a tent like pressure bank and they suck up the prey in a cloud of sand and filter out the sand. Unlike sharks they then crush the shells, of crabs, shrimp, etc., to get out the soft body of the crustacean. Off to our next snorkel stop on the tour, at the coral gardens, even though there were lots of clams with their fluorescent multi-colored mantle's lighting up the coral head, there it was again.. Remu the bad algae growing all over it. And this is supposed to be one of the prime snorkeling spots.
 |
| The stingray is a bottom feeder their mouth is on the bottom |
Jet skiing---the all in adventure. We decided not to do the helmet dive which looked kind of cool, except you only go down to 15 feet and walk the bottom, and we were disappointed at what we had seen so far from the surfacd. So we cancelled that and decided to go for it Jet Skiing, which I had never done. We had a young guide who took us a wild figure 8 wave jumping ride around the entire Bora Bora Island, 24 miles (38.6km). Loraine was once again the expert at this, and I was enjoying sitting on the back and watching all the beauty go by looking for green sea turtles etc.
 |
| Jet skiing around the island of Bora Bora |
But then the guide came up to me at one of the stops and said, everyone is trading off driving with their partners... you going to let her drive the whole way! I said yes, I was fine, then after the 3rd stop, he said this is it if you want to try driving, it's not hard. I succumbed to the male machismo, and we switched places. I was 3rd in line and before you know it they took off... something went primal in me... I have to catch up, so full throttle right out of the gate, slowing down a little for some waves but back up to full speed again... this was fun!! Loraine was laughing so hard in the back I thought she was having a great time only to find out she thought I was out of control, so at the very last turn into the bay a rogue wave hit us from the side, I slowed down a little and then punched it.. she flew off the seat, but held on somehow.. she had been holding my brand new hat, which is now at the bottom of the sea. I think her exact words when we got off were, .. I will never ride on the back of a Jet ski with you!:(
Raitea Island- The Sacred Island: We only had one full day left, and we figured we take a high speed ferry to the original landing spot of the polynesian seafarers 1000s of years ago on Raiatea Island. The 2nd largest of the Society Islands after Tahiti. The sacred Mare (sacred gathering place) Taputapuatea (UNESCO World Heritage site) is the where the ancient polynesians would gather for ceremonial feast and sometimes sacrifices. Unfortunately, we didn't get to see the site- our time was limited. We were here to kayak up the only major navigable river in the Tahitian islands- the Faaroa River.
 |
| Mt. Tefatua in the background |
Our guide was telling us the Tahitian islands are the heart of the Pacific triangle for the original migrating polynesians. Starting with Samoa, & Tonga, to the extreme corners of New Zealand (Maori) and finally to Rapa Nui Easter island. But the truth of the matter is the latest research shows the origin for first seafarers actually started in Southeast Asia, and Taiwan and moved out through Malaysian islands.
 |
| Hibiscus flowers |
The Faaroa river starts in a quiet bay, but quickly becomes part of tropical rainforest. Although, nothing compared to the Amazon, or Central America, it is still a delight to paddle up river and see the 3,000' apex of the sacred of Mt. Tefatua, peaking through the clouds, and the multi-colored hibiscus flowers, lazily floating by.
Maiti Hotel: last day--and amazing. I have to end the coral reef story, on a positive note.. and it has one. There a is a movement in Tahiti with a push from the big boy hotels, The Intercontinental, Conrad, Wyndham etc. Since the coral was dying around their bungalows and it didn't look good for the tourist industry they became pro active. On the last day we had moved up the street to the Maitai hotel, which is owned by the Intercontinental corporation. They are a Master Star sustainable hotel and doing something amazing to restore the underwater habitat. First no sewage allowed in the water from the hotel. And best of all they have incorporated the latest technology to saving small coral populations:
 |
| Bio Rock frame |
 |
| Looking down at one with the solar panels |
The Bio Rock structures the new stars of coral reefs! Bio Rocks were actually invented in the 1970s by a professor of Architecture at the University of Texas, Wolf Hilbertz, and then refined by biochemist Thomas Goreau in the 80s. So the process has been around for a long time. Hilbertz discovered by passing an electrical current through salt water attached to a metal type structure, a frame of sorts, you could get the CaCo3 (limestone) to precipitate out of the water and form a film on the metal cathode. One can use rebar as the metal, and running a current of 4 volts through it works, the fleshy free-swimming coral larvae settle on the limestone and incorporate this into forming their own skeleton. Interesting enough solar panels from the bungalows, with a cord running out into the ocean and attaching to the structure works. So that's what is being done, and diving around these Bio structures is excellent, lots of fish, a variety of live coral etc. The Bio Rocks are now made with all sorts of designs, octagon, hexagon, etc. so it's quite interesting to snorkel around the different shapes. Nowadays the big resorts with bungalows are using this technology to stabilize the coral growth by their hotels.
All is basically well in Tahiti, they also have incorporated no fishing zones around the islands to help maintain fish populations so the locals can still fish, they rotate these zones frequently. Tahiti has suffered with the growing pains of tourism, (and they still need to divide the tourist dollars to those locals in need) but it seems to have adapted quite nicely, and is still quite the place to visit and enjoy the laughter of the locals with their huge smiles, their culture, the water and breathtaking volcanic remnants plunging out of the sea.
Recommendations:
* Humpback whales-if you want to snorkel with the famous Humpback Whales, come between mid-July and October. One of the few places in the world where you can jump in the water and swim with the gentle giants.
*The Haivea, is the famous Cultural Tradition dances all through the month of July. Each island has several competitive groups and the winner is sent to Papeete for the Grand Final.
* Forget the Underwater camera or a pouch to put them in. Unless you are professional I think you are going to be wasting chasing fish, and end up with out of focus pictures. And any camera bag that you can put your phone in will probably not work (my experience), it is only good for keeping it try
* Bring your own water bottle to fill up: Each hotel will have a filtered water station to fill up your bottles, USE IT!. And watch out for salads, etc at the local eateries, they wash the lettuce with regular water and will more than likely give you the Montezuma Revenge to some degree. And brush your teeth with filtered water too.
