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Affectionately known as
Big Red |
I can't tell you how many trips we have taken in Big Red, our 1996 Tahoe (30 years old) but, I can tell you she has a big mechanical heart... or as many mechanics would say, "
they just don't make them like this anymore." How true- right down to her last adventure on the last stretch of another 4,000 mile camping trip, in 103 degree heat in Yuma at 10:00 am, and while taking the off-ramp, she shuttered violently... I think she was saying, "pay attention... this could be it"... as we glided into the service station.........
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| ONE |
When we started the trip, July of 2025, all my friends, and mechanic said I was crazy driving her around the Western mountain ranges which have roads up to 12,000', and screaming hot deserts in-between, but I figured if she passed along the way we would just saddle up and find a rental and wander back home. We started big --right through the Mojave desert to Las Vegas to go see the
Michael Jackson's, "One" (show) playing at the Mandalay Hotel on the strip.
There is Hot and then there is HOTTER... but we made good time through the desert, and made it there by 1pm, a good start. After playing in the so called wave pool (over crowded with baby waves which were disappointing), we headed off to dinner at the Superfrico restaurant at the Cosmopolitan Hotel. After dinner, we took a fun walk down the strip back to the Mandalay Bay. We were all set for the show...3rd row seats, didn't want to miss anything.
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| "The One" |
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| Missed my calling |
From the get go this was one of the most
phenomenal shows I have ever seen, put on by Cirque de Soleil with a twist of chinese acrobats performing breaking bone defying feats. The music perfectly coordinated told a story of his incredible life, from his days with the Jackson 5 all the way to: "
This is it" a documentary, capturing his final performances getting ready for 50 straight sold out performances in London, prior to his earthly departure. This album produced one of his most iconic songs: "
The Earth Song,"still played by symphonies around the world. The high flying acrobats flew high over our heads on wires, and then free fell (no wires) bouncing and twisting up the sides of 3 a story scaffolding from the embedded trampolines on the stage.
My current favorite song was performed, (most people are not familiar with it), "They don't care about us." The song is about hatred and apathy.. which is so true in our society today where states, families and acquaintances, are "Divided," not "United." More to the point, we are more like the "UN-UNITED STATES." In one of the final acts MJ seems to appear out of electronic thin air (hologram), firing sparks through his fingertips and singing, "Wanna be Startin' Somethin,"how they do that??. Full of musical wonder, we drifted to the 43rd floor of the Mandalay Bay for a drink at the Foundation Room to commemorate the first day of the beginning of a new adventure. Peering down at the lighted colorful city, we thought about all the hidden stories behind the saying, "What happens in Vegas, stays in Vegas."
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| Secluded beach |
Heading off to Wyoming to see the Grand Tetons; we found it lived up to its name from the get go. We decided to camp for an entire week at the Colter Bay campground recommended by my friend, Mark Embree. The first night we hiked 300 feet down to Jackson lake below, bushwhacking along the way. We ran into a couple of young men who said they got freaked out and turned around. But as quasi experienced hikers, we said what the heck and forged on. Near the bottom of the forest, and after a 8 foot drop we found the perfect secluded beach. Scampering down, we were rewarded with a buff swim and the grandeur of the Tertons in front of us.
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| boat ride to Elk island |
The Grand Tetons are the youngest of the major mountain ranges in the US. They formed around 10 million years ago by fault shifting (compared to 400 mya for the Appalachians). There is of course glacial loss, just like everywhere else. There are 5 glaciers that flank Mt. Moran. These glaciers formed during the a cooling period called the "little ice age" that ended around 1850 AD. Over the past 40 years they have shrunk around 20% with our changing climate.
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Mt. Moran with shrinking
glaciers |
One of the highlights while staying there, was the all inclusive dinner package boat ride across Jackson Lake onto Elk island. On the boat ride over, we had a wonderful tour guide who told us some interesting facts about the Teton range. The Grand Teton peak is the centerpiece of the teton range, at 13,600' (Mt. Moran is 12,500'). The fastest time climbing it was 2 hours and 54 min. (are they crazy or what). Normally, it requires a guided trip 5 to 6 days to summit. Not to mention, is habituated by grizzly bears who can eat 10,000 berries in one day, and being omnivores, they love left over caribou, and dig for roots.
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Grand Teton peak and Cascade
valley on the left |
Time to do some hiking, and as you can see from this topo map there are lots of trails following the various canyons.
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| Cascade Canyon hike |
We headed out across a lake Jenny on a ferry boat and then started hiking up Cascade Canyon following the valley toward the Grand Teton peak. You really can't see the peak until the very end, but the valley walls along the way our show stoppers. Seeing some moose up close (come to find out moose inflict more injuries than grizzlies-mostly because there are more mossees) and following the river made for a scenic and invigorating hike.
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| Bull moose sighting |
Yellowstone National Park, Grand Teton NP, and the National Elk Reserve all combined, form the largest intact temperate-zone ecosystem on the planet (close to 20 million acres). The perfect combination of wildlife corridors and mountains; with the cooperation of 2 different states- Wyoming and Montana to protect our larger animals: like the grizzly bears, moose, elk and wolves.
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Greater Yellowstone
Ecosystem |
Jackson Hole, once the quiet little western town is now congested with overtourism. It was a sleepy cool little town back in the 1980s during my first visit. This time, we decided to pay tribute to the Million Dollar Bar where they have saddles for bar seats. We went in and stood by the bar for a good 15 min... no service so we walked out, what a disappointment, and we were really thirsty too!
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| Elk horn arch in Jackson Hole |
They still have the great Elk horn arch located in the center of the city. The Elks shed their horns every year, which are collected and sold to support the Boy Scouts.
Next, we ventured for today's version of the"wild west ride," seeking the thrills of the Cowboy Coaster. Always a rush soaring down the mountain while trying not to use the breaks.
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| Cowboy Coaster |
Well, it was time to leave the Jackson Hole area and Big Red was getting an itch for some off-roading. We ventured to the so called "short cut" near Dubois, over Union Pass, at about 9,000 + feet. (if you look on a typical map this road doesn't exist). We quickly got lost since there were no signs and it was supposed to be a 40 mile dirt road that would shave off a few hours of transit to Pinedale, that passed through the Wind River Range. We were standing in the middle of nowhere and scratching our heads, and looking at a disorienting BLM sign, when up drives our savior. A semi-old codger (probably living out of truck) with a camper on top and his dog, Butch. Loraine sprinted over to his truck and explained that we were lost and asked if any of these roads go towards Pinedale, WY. He said "yep, just follow that one dirt road there for about 3 more hours and you will come across a T turn, turn right and go another 1 hour or so. Turns out, this "short cut" added about 4 hours to our drive! It was nothing but washboard, giant boulders, trenches and potholes. I figured at any minute Big Red was going down for good, but somehow she held it together to our amazement. But there was a bright spot along the way. We stopped for lunch at the top of picturesque expansive pass along a creek which seemed to come out of the sky, since we thought we were already at the highest spot.
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The tippy top of Union Pass,
9,000' + |
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Sacred Rim trail
lookout
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Turns out it was all worth the 30 minute lunch break in this breathtaking scenery. After finally reaching Pinedale, we cleaned up at the local Best Western and did some wash. The following day, we took what was supposed to be a 5 star
Sacred Rim hike along the Wind Range in the Bridger Wilderness area. Turned out, we got lost again and ended up mostly climbing over fallen logs, and dodging branches covered with mushy mosses. But the means was worth the end, the billowing clouds began to drip rain on us as we came to the lookout point and discovered another epic view. I would give it about a 2 stars for the trail and 5 stars for the final view, worth the drive up.
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| 6 Million Dollar Band |
STEAMBOAT SPRINGS: On our way to Aspen, I thought Loraine would really enjoy a spa day at the rock laden Strawberry natural hot springs in Steamboat Springs. I had visited the rock laden pools while skiing many years ago, but it was all in the dark and snowing (quite the experience). So we stopped there for a couple of days, and did some bike riding and heard a great band called the 6 Million Dollar Band at the local ski resort. We forgot to make reservations for the Strawberry Hot Springs which proved to be a BIG mistake! So, "no way Jose!" Of course, if you wanted to grease the teenage kids who sold the tickets, and bring them dinner, cookies (suggested by the receptionist at the hot springs), they would probably find a way to let you in. We decided to take a pass, since we didn't want to support that kind of a business practise.
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Yampa river creek
bike ride |
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| Rafters along the Yampa river |
Aspen, Colorado: Never been there, and have heard of it forever, mostly from a skiing point of view. It was the home to one of the US National championships in 1941, and hosted the first alpine ski racing outside of Europe in 1950.
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View from the top of
the Gondola |
This mountain city sits at 8,000,' and is nestled in-between some staggering mountain peaks. We took a gondola ride straight up from the middle of town to the 11,212' mid-station of the ski area for a scenic ride to have lunch, and you can hike around a bit to take in the views. We decided instead to play cornhole and shuffle board by the lodge. The town of Aspen, lives up to its ritzy billing. With expensive boutique shops and quaint little 5 star Michelin restaurants lining the streets. Not for us, however, they have a great ice cream place, Paradise Bakery, which kind of made up for the presumptuousness.
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Big Red enjoying the
Aspen city flowers |
In the summer the place to go in Aspen is
Maroon Bells Wilderness area. This time I was prepared. Since, I had heard about it's popularity before we left, and low and behold, just to park up anywhere near the trailheads, you had to reserve a parking permit ahead of time, and that is what we did. Although you can pay $15 each, at any time, and take a shuttle up there. Even with a permit, you have to enter the park before 7am to get a spot....easier to take the shuttle. Maroon Bells is worth all the hype with spectacular scenery around a free flowing creek, bordered with bridges and little waterfalls. What makes this place unique, is the 14,000' Mountain Ridges draping down on all the sides of the valley with the 2 Maroon Bells peaks gracing the sky and at the end of the canyon.
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Maroon Bells peaks at
the end of the valley |
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| Beaver doing his dam work |
In the future, the epitome would be to hike this trail along the ridge on a 11 day mile hike across the ridges to Creste de Butte, and then shuttle back around the mountain range. We enjoyed the short hike around the base of the valley, spotting some a deer buck with a 7 point rack, and seeing enormous beaver den in a pond, and watching the never ending work of a beaver doing his work along the creek.
At our campsite, we packed up and then headed out of Aspen. Along the way, there is another intriguing side track, the Slot canyons of the Grotto.
They were formed at the base of the glaciers when they existed here 1000s of years ago, and as the ice melted, the rocky water formed deep slots along the bedrock. (see diagram). It is another special place to stop and have a picnic including a short walk through the sculptured slots.
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| The Grottos |
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| Picnic spot along the grottos |
After the grottos we headed up the mountain pass, climbing fast. Once again crossing my fingers, and giving Big Red an extra pat on the dash, we went from 8,000' to over 12,000' to escape the valley and marveled at the gaping views, but no time to stop, as we descending into the vast plains below. As it turns out, on highway 82, you travel over
Independence Pass, at 12, 095', which is one of the the highest paved road crossing the the continental divide. Our trusty steed, Big Red did it again!
Durango, Colorado: When you pull into the Vallecitos community, you feel like you are returning to the mountains within your soul. The cabin stands large and is about 100 feet to the Los Pinos river. It feels like a pillar of the local community, and is often warmly referred to as the "Taj Mahal" and is as solid as it gets. The giant smooth granite boulders form the foundation that was dug up and tractored by Loraine's grandfather. Loraine's brother Len, and grandfather wrapped the boulders around the cabin and held them in place while and her mom, Rita (Bon Bon), added the water to the cement mixer.
Waking up at the crack of dawn, I scurried down to the river to get the early bitters. Loraine followed a little later with a delicious cup of hot coffee. Fishing was great once again, landing some good size 18" or so Browns and Rainbows: and only catching enough for dinner each day.
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| Fishing the Los Pinos |
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| Big Red guarding the cabin |
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very important to find a good
hammock spot amidst
the Ponderosa Pines |
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Loraine enjoying Ed's bench
across the river |
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Rainbow on top
Brown on the bottom |
We spent the next week or so exploring the Durango area with hikes along the Vallectios River and the Pine Valley area. Both areas bring out the best of the mountain aura: streaming waterfalls, pools filled with crystal clear water, and fresh air filled with the subtle lingering scent of pine, vanilla and maple from the ponderosa pines. I am guessing, by following steams you could go forever though the mountain passes, and stretching your imagination along the way.
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| Vallecitos River |
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| Entry sign to Pine River valley |
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| Pine Valley |
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And then it's
straight up |
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| Starts off slow enough |
We took a day and drove over to Purgatory mountain resort to challenge ourselves on the mountain coaster and fly through the forest at 25 mph + hoping you stay on the track. All I know is you have to do these things while you can.. so why not, I can reset my back when I get back to the cabin! Heading out to Sedona, AZ in the morning is always a sad farewell leaving the extraordinary beauty of the cabin setting. Loraine has so many childhood memories here, but it wasn't until she met me she caught her first trout on the Los Pinos River and now she's hooked! As a farewell gift at our neighborhood party, wise old
Ed Swere, gave me his book called the "
Age of Wonder," the second Science Renaissance revolution in Europe .
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A great read on the
2nd Renaissance |
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Friends around the cabin valley
Ed's behind the umbrella |
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Oak Creek swimming
hole |
Big Red's final hurrah: We made it to
Yuma, AZ and the thermometer was pushing
103 degrees by 10:00 AM. We had already stopped to get our Date shake, and Loraine was driving this leg, I dozed off and upon awakening I mentioned we needed to get gas.... and then it happened! As we took the exit and stopped at the stop sign, she lurch forward as we rounded the corner, then again as she stepped on the gas pedal once more, yikes, what was that!! We limped into the gas station and started our sleuth work to determine the cause... oil ok, no radiator problems, no new engine lights, except for the one which appeared out of Las Vegas, on the 2nd day.. check engine! Maybe we should have paid attention, but that light turned out to be for the emission control, so we ignored it. Back to the problem, probably something to do with transmission -- who knows, the transmission fluid cap was frozen shut, so we couldn't check it. And since it was Saturday, no mechanic shops were open, except Pep Boys... right, they didn't have a clue. We let her cool off for about a 1/2 hour and then came decision time... what to do... it was now
105 degrees, and we're stuck in Yuma. And, if that wasn't enough, Loraine's awful toothache had decided to resurface with a flare after the date shake.
I decided try to get on the highway and if there was no problems, we would go for it... all we have to do is no shifting once we got into 4th gear. Oh yeah, I forgot to mention, we have to go over the El Centro Pass at 4,000'. We made it on the highway, good job Big Red.. I patted her on the dash and said if any stead could get us home she could. I think she heard me! We cruised by one town after another and now the ominous mountain pass loomed ahead.. I thought if we can just keep her at higher speed of 45 mph plus, she wouldn't try shifting. Turns out going 45 mph around mountain curves with other cars and trucks is quite the challenge. We kept seeing, pull outs for overheating on many of the turns. But finally, we somehow reached the summit at 4,181'. All downhill now... nope... not that easy, road construction ahead, so we had to stop and go for another 10 miles, damn! Now what do we do? I finally decided we would just coast in neutral, and use the brakes-- no shifting, and as chance would have it there was just enough grade to do so. One last obstacle, I didn't want to exit from highway to highway in San Diego and slow down, this rules out highway 67, which would save some time... but since Loraine was rolling around in the front seat with her splitting toothache..time was of the essence... so the next best thing was to take Hwy 805 north and maintain a speed so Red wouldn't shift, another fun curve, but she did it. Now what about the stop and go traffic in Del Mar...oh right it's Saturday, yeah, no stopping the whole way. We got off on our exit at Manchester Ave. with just one more hill to climb, to be home... I did a double pat on the dash to assure her she could meet one more challenge and she responded. Into the driveway we went, Loraine jumped out of Red, and into her car and headed off to the emergency room, which thank goodness helped with the pain. Ends up that Loraine had an infection from a previous root canal surgery that now required a tooth removal.
So Big Red had lived up to her reputation as the Trusty Stead. She powered through vast deserts of 100 plus heat, up 12,000' mountain grades and even did some off-roading along the way. According to my mechanic, when transmissions get overheated they like to slip gears. So being a beach girl, once back to cool Encinitas she did fine around town. We finally decided to sell her in November after 30 years of good times and buy something built in this century. Teary eyed, but satisfied, we sold her to a nice you man from Alpine who is taking up surfing. And, just the other day my trainer, Randy, saw her cruising the streets of Encinitas, enjoying the beach life of Southern California!
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