I now appreciate the line from the movie,
Network “I can’t take it anymore,” uttered by Peter Finch, as he was having a major meltdown with the newspaper process. Having been housebound for 4 months and having several planned trips cancelled (including one to Bali); COVID 19 was getting the best of me. You see, I have a defined genetic condition that has been identified as the
Wanderlust Gene, DRD4-7R, by Dr.Chen. In the December 1998 issue of National Geographic, it is estimated that 20% of the world has it and that 40-50% are US citizens. Sometimes called the travel gene, the DR stands for the Dopamine Receptors. These identified genetic marker makes a person less susceptible to dopamine, and therefore, to get that
“happy warm feeling,” you have to do something with more risk and adventure....that sounds about right. SO.. after talking this over extensively with my wife, Loraine, we decided that if we used COVID safe practices: masks, 6’ social distancing with constant hand sanitizing; we could travel the Pacific Northwest in “
Big Red,” (
our beat up 1996 Chevy Tahoe). We ventured off on July 11th, 2020, to do some camping, hoteling and Airbnb: but, with caution and superabundant preparedness. We even brought our own Porta Potty (using cat litter and organic plastic bags) with a little privacy tent. By the way if you go on the road I suggest a fantastic article sponsored by
PBS on what precautions to look for when staying in hotels, etc.
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BIG RED & LORAINE |
https://www.pbs.org/newshour/health/is-it-safe-to-stay-in-a-hotel-cabin-or-rental-home-during-the-pandemic |
CUTE LITTLE Airbnb COTTAGE |
CALIFORNIA REDWOODS: If you haven’t been there,
Go! There is nothing more humbling on planet Earth, than a 300’ giant redwood towering above to remind you of the magnificence of Gaia’s creation. We first stopped at a cute little Airbnb on the northern edge of Crescent City. We took out our
COVID BAG and started spraying down with disinfectant and rubbing alcohol, even though they told us they had just performed a
level 5 (the best recommendation by Airbnb) deep cleaning. The next morning we took off to
Jedediah Smith State Park driving along a dirt road with majestic crowns above us.
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LORAINE IN AWE OF THESE GIANTS |
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DRIVING A DIRT ROAD TO THE BOY SCOUT TRAIL |
We hiked the “
Boy Scout Trail,”a tame 4 mile hike - but there are some spots that you just can’t help being inspired. The 300’ giants (ps. the tallest measured Redwood is 380') are equivalent to a 30 story building with very shallow roots.
Imagine the physics behind getting water up that high with
no pump....how do they do it? Of course
transpiration off the leaves is the driving force. Except, you have to have osmotic root pressure by water from the soil and tiny capillary tubes inside the xylem (wood) for the water molecules to cling on to and the ability to cling to each other (like a wet paper towel effect). This temperate rainforest is unique in the world and vastly different then the Amazon Rainforest... rainfall is not near as great, so the Redwoods depend on the early morning
fog to help out. At one time in the past there was a continuous network of Redwoods all the way from the middle of California up to the state of Washington. A preferred wood for building, loggers took most of these groves, and some were even sold for ridiculous profits. One such individual was financier Charles Hurwitz, who lost a huge amount of money when
Junk Bonds collapsed in the late 1980s and he sold these trees to pay off his debt. This gave rise to poet
Julia Butterfly, who risked her life and lived in the top crown of one the giant Redwoods (called Luna) to protest the trees being cut down. Julia stayed up in the tree starting in 1997 for 2 years without ever coming down. Eventually, Hurwitz came to an agreement to save a meager 7,000 acres (conservationists were trying to get 60,000 acres) of the Headwaters trees only after President Clinton stepped in to call Hurwitz personally pressed him to save this National Treasure.
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NATURAL AIR DOES MAKE YOU STRONGER :) |
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POPULAR ROCK JUMPING SWIMMING HOLE IN JEDEDIAH SMITH PARK |
MOUNT HOOD, OREGON: |
MT. HOOD-SKI AREA ON RIGHT |
Heading off to central Oregon, we were ready for some real camping hopefully, on a river, until we found a rising problem----
EVERYONE was going camping, because of the COVID 19. Travelers that normally go overseas in the summer we’re staying put in the US, and so camping and glamping seem to have taken over. Additionally, the National Forest Service closed a portion of the campgrounds and pretty much all the ranger stations too. Once we arrived at the foot of the awe inspiring Mt. Hood, we couldn’t find anything! Luckily, I remembered the famous
TimberLine Lodge, built during the New Deal orchestrated by then president FDR during the depression years. A magnificent structure that only took 18 months to build and stands as a monument to a nation working together, embracing creativity, and directed by visionary government leadership. Most of the workers had no skills, they just needed jobs. So, the skilled Carpenters or Ironsmiths etc., had to teach everyone on the spot. They built amazing sculptures and rustic art works that are displayed throughout the hotel (a true testament of what can be done under less than perfect circumstances).
Makes me wonder, why nowadays we can't incorporate jobs (and cut out the hand me outs in Federal and State Aid) and include our National Parks as part of our
Green New Deal in 2020 that is on the table in Congress. There are a ton of jobs that we could train people to manage our overgrown National Forests that are prone to fires. Think of all that fresh air the workers would be getting. The lodge also has skiing right outside the door and is considered one of the premier places in the summertime.
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INTRICATE IRON WORK IN HOTEL |
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OVERLOOKING TIMBERLINE HOTEL |
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WALK -IN SIZE FIREPLACES |
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AMAZING CRAFTSMANSHIP |
Staying at the Timberline lodge allowed us to access the
Paradise Trail right outside the door for a 5 mile day hike with stunning scenery everywhere. It was crowded, so we had to keep pulling up our masks as everyone went by.
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PARADISE TRAIL
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We stayed two nights at the historic Timberline and left on a Monday heading up the highway, scouring each campground hoping for cancellations. Most campgrounds keep FFS, (first come first serve) spots open but this year they were far and in-between. We finally stumbled into Nottingham campground on the edge of the National Park, and there it was campsite #14...2500 square feet of solitude right on the river. We erected our tent and didn’t move for 8 days!
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SITE #14 AT NOTTINGHAM CAMPSITE |
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TREACHEROUS STREAM CROSSING |
So for these 8 days of bliss, we did lots of hiking and a little mountain biking. We took another special hike after a 4 wheel drive for 10 miles up rocky roads along the upper edge of Mt. Hood. We ended up on part of the “
Timberline” Trail that circumnavigated the mountain for 40 miles. Even though the area was severely burned in the 2012 fire, the views were off the charts and we were able to see
Mt Adams 30 miles away.
Only had one challenge, crossing a swift stream up to our thighs (that by the way, I am still paying for), one slip and down a large waterfall you go. We carefully watched others try to negotiate it, and most did fine except for one lady that fell off the embankment into the river that I ended up fishing out with my hiking pole. We finally negotiated a path across and even though Loraine got her foot stuck under a rock at one point.
Loraine said she would never do that again!!...I always say, “never say never”😁. Once across the stream, we had a beautiful walk on the other side. The wildflowers shouting out their vibrant colors for everyone to see. And then I realized, we had never seen the turn off for the trail that was supposed to loop back...darn... it was
supposed to be 4 mile hike now it was 8! and less than 3 hours to dark. Loraine said she would rather hike 20 miles than cross that stream again. Luckily, we came across a friendly backpacker who was coming toward us and he had been hiking for 10 miles. He explained that there is nothing ahead....soooo back we go to traverse the mighty stream.. I think Loraine’s words were “
you’re not getting anything tonight!“ Anything!! |
CIRCUMVENTING TIMBERLINE TRAIL 40 MILE LOOP |
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2012 FIRE ON MT. HOOD |
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ATOP MT. HOOD-MT. ADAMS 28 MILES AWAY |
We made it back just before sunset. Then drove the 10 mile dirt road back and stopped at the Cedar Resort along the way and after a couple beers... and all was forgiving :)
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NEW-SPARKLING CBD SPRITZERS |
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STEPS TO RIVER |
One of Loraine’s cool attributes is that she loves to leave things better than she finds them. So, for several days she hand molded some stairs for people to walk down the sand embankment leading to the Hood River (see picture). One of the interesting things about the COVID situation is going into grocery stores or fishing shops. First, there was hardly any fishing gear or bait to speak of (depleted by campers) and second, the barren shelves in stores around the campgrounds had very limited supplies and water. One day we went into a Parkerdale general store by Mt.Hood. The shelves were half full, and we were not able to find gallon water containers; but it wasn’t a complete loss as we discovered CBD Spritzers...great stuff to go into your vodka. But, of course, we haven’t been able to find any since. I expect this will be a new beverage trend in the future.
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BIKING BOISE RIVER |
SAWTOOTH NATIONAL RECREATION AREA via
BOISE was next on our agenda. We rose at the crack of dawn to break down the campsite and off to Idaho we went. First, we needed to get the grit off our bodies, so we took a side route and stopped in Boise to get cleaned up and a shower at the local Hyatt. I asked the Hyatt about their Central Air Conditioning,
(HVAC), according to the manager they had just changed the room filters...hmm? After some research I found if you really want to protect yourself against COVID, you need a
HEPA Filter, these are rated on the MERV SCALE, facilities need at least a MERV 13 level -(MERV 13-17 are what is used in nursing homes and hospitals). I asked the front desk again and they had no clue concerning this new information.
Oh well, I am still alive! Boise is the capital of Idaho and has turned into quite the cosmopolitan/hipster metropolitan. We saw lots of quaint outdoor tented cafes along the pavement in front of the businesses. On the (exclusively walking) 8th street, the “Fork’s”, a mostly organic restaurant, is outstanding. It was reassuring to see all the waiters wearing masks and also most of the people roaming the town.
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HUCKLEBERRY STOP |
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LOCAL MURALS |
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BUILDING MURAL |
As you can see by the pictures (above); while walking around town, we noticed the culture of Boise has picked up with lots of colorful mosaics on all sorts of shaped facades-very cool. The next day we rented bikes near Boise State University and found a fun and uplifting bike ride along the Boise river. It was quite fun watching people cruise by floating on their various creative rafts laughing and drinking. Well rested now; we were off to the Sawtooth National Recreation Area. A 750,000 acre park full of nonstop adventure. I suspect, that many people from California have not heard of this area. But, we were in the middle of COVID, and people are camping everywhere... so here we go again. We side-stepped the Redfish Lake (being a popular tourist area), and while on the main road stopped at every campground we came across in search of a campsite.....nothing! After driving through about 10 campgrounds in 20 miles we finally lucked out and found the wonderful Wood River Campground (7 miles west of Ketchum, Sun Valley, Idaho). We had a special camp host, named “Jerry”, who carried a genuine warm smile on his face as he scooted around in his golf cart going to each campsite checking up on the campers and offering directions or tidbits. I am guessing that Jerry (easily in his 70s) has the Wanderlust gene too. Nearly every year he is a host at a different National or State Park campground, and last year he pulled his 5th wheel up to Alaska to visit his son, but now...he is in love with Idaho.
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WOOD RIVER CAMPSITE I WONDER IF THAT LIGHT MEANS ANYTHING |
The best part of being at Wood River Campground, was they just stocked the Wood River with rainbow trout. So, each morning we caught our dinner and now, Loraine is a rainbow trout lover. What I didn’t realize is she likes to fish and we had only 1 pole. So after I had a few casts, she would hint she needed to practice and this pray tell, was the last time I touched the pole, until she got tired. No complaints though, she even puts on her own salmon eggs and worms.
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LORAINE'S FIRST TROUT SHE HAS EVER CAUGHT |
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NEAR THE BRIDGE SPOT |
We had been influenced by the
"Iceman" guru, Wim Hof, before we had left on our trip. His portal to health and happiness is freezing cold water or snow! So we started taking cold showers at home and believe it or not you really feel quite exhilarated, and more alive.
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PERFECT SWIMMING HOLE |
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GREAT VIEWS ON THE BIKE TRAIL |
So we thought what the heck, let’s start
jumping in freezing cold streams whenever we saw one. Well, Wood River is the perfect place and about 1/2 mile walk from the campground we found the perfect swimming hole. Nothing like a quick dip in 55 degree water to bring your senses alive. On another day, I decided to rent a mountain bike and try my luck on the famous
17 mile Harriman Trail following the Wood River that dances along the forest edges. Pretty exciting ride with lots of bumps and turns, much easier if you are going down hill from Galena Lodge to the Sawtooth National Recreation center. About 1/2 way through the ride, I had used up most of my water in the 95 plus heat, and there was not much tree coverage. Luckily, I found a shaded water spot and dipped my handkerchief that cooled my head to recover. Once back at the campsite, I drenched myself in water and collapsed in a chair, waiting for Loraine to drive me back to the Lodge to return the bike.
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GREAT 17 MILE MOUNTAIN BIKE RIDE |
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95 PLUS HEAT |
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FIRE SHOT |
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A FIRE MOSAIC |
“Big Red” our Tahoe, was holding up pretty good for being 25 years old, so we decided more
4 wheeling was in order. We heard about a great hike to
Baker Lake in the Sawtooth area, but you had to do some Off-Roading to get there. Interestingly, along the way we encountered a new way of camping called "
Dispersed Camping". Otherwise.. camp where you want and it doesn’t cost a thing, but make sure you bring your own water, chairs and tables. Because of COVID, this kind of camping was widespread and every time we went on an Off-Road trip we would see people scattered everywhere with trailers, RVs, or tents.
After 4 twisting miles we arrived at the Trailhead for
Baker Lake. They had recently had a fire up there too, and the hiking became quite eerie, but made for some remarkable pictures of haunting casts of hollowed trees that once had so much life. Once we arrived at Baker Lake, we were stunned by its clarity and emerald beauty! And, my favorite part was the "
Fly Fishing Only Sign,"that said there is a limit of 2 trout and they must be
20” or longer. Wow- I thought, but guess what, the lake was loaded with the biggest trout I had seen in a long time. But we had no fly rod, so we took another dip keeping up our pledge of Cold Water..
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BAKER LAKE |
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HAMMOCK SPOT
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LOGAN’S PASS- UTAH: On the road again. Big Red was making a
funny new sound from the undercarriage, probably due to our most recent 4 wheel side trip; hopefully the muffler wasn’t falling off. So here we are wandering again, with no reservations, hmmm... where would we end up? We thought it would be interesting to follow the scenic route of Logan’s pass (AAA maps, have scenic routes with dots on them). Once again, we searched about 8-10 campgrounds until we came upon the next dream campsite at Red Banks about 10 miles past Garden City by Bear lake, Idaho (but in Utah). Darn, only fly fishing here, but what a spot, we chose a campsite with a majestic cantilevering Cottonwood tree dangling over the river. There was a great branch to hang my hammock and enjoy the cascading river water. Loraine went right to work doing her campsite beautification. We purchased a pair of "loppers"and a hand saw so she could trim the dead bushes and get rid of the nasty sticker ones. She practiced her "Rock Balancing" (carin) technique in the quiet pools, that she referenced as focal center pieces. I am sure some kids will really appreciate this little slice of heaven.
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We took a day trip up to Bear Lake. Talk about a playground for weekenders. Seven miles long, with skiing boats, skidoos, paddleboards, you name it. Loraine even got me on a Skidoo, for a little rush, but there were wind driven bumps that proved too much for my bulging discs. I lasted only about 20 minutes and had enough. Loraine took over, dropped me on the shore and took off like a Tasmanian Devil. Splashing through the waves like a little kid, she must have been reliving her youth when her family ruled Lake Powell, with all their boating toys.
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Before we left Red Banks we took a hike up to the caveronous "Wind Cave".
(about 7 miles east of Logan city). Although it looks like wind erosion formed the cave, in reality it was once below a shallow sea that leaked in water and combined with the limestone to excavate a sizable hole 100,000 years ago that formed the cave we see today.
Although there is no mention of Indian rituals on any of the signage, by the looks of it, this would have been a cool place for the past American Native Indians to have ceremonies.
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WIND CAVE |
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BRIDGE OVER THE WIND CAVE |
ON THE ROAD AGAIN: We had taken a sudden westerly turn out of the Logan pass and headed through the most desolate tiny arm of southern Wyoming imaginable.
I think even tumbleweeds would get bored! After 100 miles of desert thrills we crossed into Utah and happened on to another scenic road driving next to the stunning
Flaming Gorge Reservoir along the Green River, what a sight! We have to go back there someday, I hear the fishing and boating are off the charts & it looks like Lake Powell.
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FLAMING GORGE RESERVOIR UTAH |
GRAND JUNCTION CITY, COLORADO: Another layover place, to get cleaned up after 5 days of camping. This area is a jump off point for rafting the Colorado River, and bike riding. The city was sweltering hot when we arrived, and on the way we passed the start of the
Pine Gulch Fire, that later became the 2nd largest Fire in Colorado history. The fire had been burning a couple weeks, but by the time we left, it was joining the super firestorms of California, with over 27 square miles burnt. Come to find out after reading a book on fire management, we have failed miserably on the National level to take the correct steps limiting the impact of fires. But that is another story I will address it in the next Earth Day Blog, spring 2021.
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BIKING ALONG THE COLORADO RIVER-HOT! |
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PINE GULCH FIRE |
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GOOD DOGGY :)
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PET THE DOG: I guess it’s time to pet the dog and say goodbye for this portion of the trip, and realize that-- "I CAN TAKE IT," as a matter of fact, thrive in these adverse circumstances. And, as my daughter Torrey reminded me, it takes "Courage" and not necessarily Comfort", to weather these times and realize we are all in this together.
WHAT WAS THE PLAIN TRUTH WE LEARNED ON THIS ADVENTURE:
1. COVID 19 has changed the way we travel. Nowadays, you really have to pay attention all the time and not let your guard down. People for the most part are following the safety measures enacted by each state, but not always.
2. The U.S. has 1 out of 3 acres in public lands: National and State Parks, Wilderness Areas, BLM Land, etc.. From an international point of view, that is extraordinary. We have amazing Natural wonders to see and enjoy, via camping, hoteling or Airbnb in this country. This National Geographic book is a great reference for our National Parks you can order on Amazon.
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NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC BOOK |
3. When I see the American flag (on personal property, not Post Offices, etc,) these days, it feels like it is a political statement and represents a division in our country. I don’t feel as proud like I once did. In the past, we prided ourselves on being innovative leaders, supporting equal rights & had compassion for all.
4. For some, COVID seems to be a statement of personal freedom. I say, “hogwash,”as exhibited by 400,000 bikers for a Sturgis Motorcycle Rally, who descended on South Dakota in early August, 2020, with no masks, and a hoopla attitude. The converging bikers already seeded several hundred new COVID cases, and at least 1 death in late August, according to the Huffington Post. This is now forming the potential base for thousands of new cases. These actions show no consideration for the local people or their businesses. This pandemic should be about being considerate to others, not our personal freedoms.
5. In a quaint outdoor book shop in Colorado, we came across what I think, as one of the best solutions to our current state of disarray, a petite framed picture with a saying by
Pete Seeger- the Rock and Roll star: “I think the world is going to be saved by millions of small things.”
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